Our journey began in O Cebreiro. This village, located in the Pilgrim's route (camino de Santiago), still retains some pallozas (ancient thatched dwellings) that were inhabited until well into the twentieth century. We travel northwards following a route parallel to the mountains of Serra dos Ancares, passing through the villages of Doiras and A Degrada, as far as Piornedo, located not far from the limits with the province of León.

       As you may have seen from our images, the vegetation covers almost the entire floor. We found extensive shady hillsides where autochthonous tree species such as ash, holly, oak, maple, hazelnut, walnut ...were abundant. And as it was autumn, many of them still retained the yellow and red leaves proper of this time.

     There is a great variety of animals that inhabit these hills. Raptors are abundant and we had the opportunity to see some of them as the goshawk and others not identified. The deer and chamois seem to be present and, as we were told, the bear was seen on occasion.

      Piornedo has the largest number of pallozas which still remain in Galicia. Some of them inhabited well until the second half of the 20th century. 

     They are circular with thick stone walls and conical roof (teito) made entirely on rye straw supported on a wooden frame. The origin is pre-Roman and most probably celtic. It was the housing par excellence where people and animals lived together.

The palloza has no chimney and the smoke from the kitchen (lareira), which always had the fire lit, seeps out through the straw contributing to the conservation of the roof, protecting beams and drying the moisture from the straw.

      

       In Piornedo we had a chance to visit one of the pallozas-museum where several tools are still kept. In the pictures above, the living corner is at top on the left, the loom (tear) is at top on the right, tools to work flax (tasca, ripión and restelo) are below left, and the coroza, some kind of raincoat made of rush to protect from cold and rain, is below right.

                  An old tree (castiñeiro) covered with moss                                                         The river Navia

    Serra do Courel extends southwards, the other hand of the main highway N-VI, from Pedrafita do Cebreiro as far as Quiroga, in the province of Lugo. Well known for its rich landscape, it presents the most rugged mountains of Los Ancares and deep valleys through which runs the river Lor tributary of the river Sil. It is an area that has a large number of botanical varieties offering refuge to many species of birds and mammals.

The day chosen for our visit was cloudy. Deep in the valleys chestnuts, dressed for autumn, covered hillsides mingling with fog broken in shreds.

    Following the road LU-651, that lead us into Courel's heart, we stopped in Seoane, continuing thereafter as far as Folgoso do Courel, crossing hamlets and ancient villages with their black slate roofs and always accompanied by the river Lor and the numerous rushing cascades pouring on it. 

Clic HERE to see more images of Serra do Courel.