La Maragatería

                                               October 2001                                    Select another language  Select spanish language         Select Galician language






outhwest of Astorga, between this one and the Mountains of Teleno, we find this region of León's province. It includes several villages of strong muleteer tradition (mule drivers or skinners), wherefrom its name comes. Between several housing options for a rapid visit, the village Quintanilla de Somoza turned out to be a good choice.



The village, 18 km (12 mi) from Astorga, can be reached following road LE-133, direction to Val de San Lorenzo, to continue later following road LE-141

(See Map)



Return here

View of Quintanilla de Somoza

   Quintanilla de Somoza's view. The Mountains of Teleno at the rear.


Casa del Filandón

Casa del Filandón

In this trip we lodge at the Casa del Filandón, which turned out to be a very agreeable site, with a careful service, wide rooms and the possibility of realizing several activities


Quintanilla de Somoza, in the heart of the maragata region , is a nice and calm village. From here it is possible to walk and ascend (only for experts) to Mount Teleno (2.188 m, 7.293 ft). 

Click inside the small picture to enlarge

      It was very agreeable to walk along the banks of the river Duerna (to the right). Autumn was the best epoch; trees were dressed with all lovely red and yellow colours. This was the epoch we chose to visit this region.

Autumn at the banks of the river Duerna   
Castrillo de los Polvazares  

        Castrillo de los Polvazares


On visiting this region, we must mention the famous cocido maragato (some kind of stew mainly made with meat, seasoned pork, blood pudding and chickpeas) and those places where there can be tasted this so typical plate of the gastronomy of this land. 

   Castrillo de los Polvazares is a luminous village with stone houses, many of them recently restored, and paved streets. Visitors must leave cars at the entry of the village. 

   (See Map)

Castrillo de los Polvazares

Another corner in  Castrillo de los Polvazares

         First of all we must mention Cuca la Vaina, a renowned and well-known Inn in Castrillo de los Polvazares.  It is easy to come but it is so popular and always so crowded that it will be difficult to book a  table even with recommendation

What time is it?

If you are confounded with the time as shown in the clock that exists on the counter, pass the mouse on it and you will know what time it is.

       The cocido maragato has to be eat beginning with the meats to continue with the chickpeas and to finish with the soup. This is in a different mode as in other country regions, and appears to be perfectly justified

To learn more visit the web site (in Spanish) of  Pepe Iglesias                       


Begin with meats...

...follow with chickpeas.


   After finish the stew and some drink accompaniments, a good choice was to spend that evening in a visit to an ancient Iron-work in Compludo, a small village distant about 30 km (19 mi) following the same road LE-142.

(See Map)

    . In Acebo we followed a sinuous descending road that comes near to the Iron-works placed to the bank of the river deep in the valley. The landscape is really wonderful, but the road is dangerous, full of curves and with great slope. Watch the brakes of your car !.

       The Iron-works of Compludo, of the 7th century, has been restored recently. The forge is still working like in the Middle Ages, preserving the mallet in perfect and noisy functioning and the forge where air is injected by means of a curious mechanism based on Venturi's principle.


The Iron-work in Compludo

Some interesting links

 In Spanish:

Casa del Filandón

Cuca la Vaina

La Maragatería

In English:

Castrillo de los Polvazares

Turismo rural


 Home page